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  #21  
Old 11-16-2006, 05:18 AM
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i'm hooked, definitely along for the ride on this one. very well thought out. looks unreal already. love the tons of pictures too. good job man
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  #22  
Old 11-16-2006, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chin_Lee View Post
You mentioned you need some modification to your gate valves on your overflow. Can you elaborate?

Where did you get the 90 degree metal brackets for your front and side ramps?

I see an air duct in ceiling - does this goes into your house's furnace air return? If so, any consideration to venting the air directly out of the house? In my setup, I am looking to install a dehumistat on my fan to vent moist air directly out of the house when the relative humidity gets too high.

great job.
The photo I posted shows 3/4" gate valves. It turned out that these couldn't carry enough of the flow. I needed the 1.5" outlet to be restricted...but not that much. I've since replaced these with 1.5", which I can dial back as much as required. I tried to save some money, and it cost me more in the long run. Anyone looking for some 3/4" gate valves?

The 90 degree brackets. That project is in my garage. Still top secret that one. The brackets were fabricated by a local metal shop. Cheap and simple.

I should have mentioned the ceiling duct. That vents directly to the outside. I may run it on a humidistat and/or thermostat...or I just might run it all the time. We'll see.
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  #23  
Old 11-16-2006, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostMind View Post
Wow, very nicely done. So when you inviting all the local reefers over to ooh and ahh ? :P
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Originally Posted by vanreefer View Post
Looking good man I am awaiting the open house to view the final product
I'm figuring summer BBQ at my place. Until then, there won't be too much to see.
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  #24  
Old 11-16-2006, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Treme View Post
Just an idea to keep the doors from crashing on your head....... How bout those hydraulic "struts" that vehicles use to hold the rear glass or tailgates up? (can ya tell I'm a mechanic?)
I checked those out. My largest door only weighs 17lbs and even the smallest automobile strut that I could find was too powerful. There's some math there that I can't get my head around to try to find the appropriate strut and locate it in the correct position on the door.
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  #25  
Old 11-16-2006, 06:21 AM
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Very nice tank and neat setup!

May I ask you a question? I just saw you are using two white plastic buckets for your skimmer and as a sump. What are they actually? And how big are they?

Thanks!
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  #26  
Old 11-16-2006, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by more1020 View Post
Very nice tank and neat setup!

May I ask you a question? I just saw you are using two white plastic buckets for your skimmer and as a sump. What are they actually? And how big are they?

Thanks!
The skimmer is a G6. It may be cheap, but I wouldn't call it a plastic bucket!

There are two sumps. Both are PE plastic. I purchased these from a tank manufacturer and they were shipped from Florida. The larger one is 120 gallons (48Lx24Wx24H)...the smaller is 60 gallons (36Lx20Wx20H). The same shipment also brought the 50 gallon mixer and the 100 gallon RO cylindrical tanks.

I would have been nice to do the sumps out of acrylic, but there was just too much money to be saved doing them in PE since I had to purchase/ship the cylindrical tanks no matter what.
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  #27  
Old 11-16-2006, 04:24 PM
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<borat>wowwowweee</borat>

Wow, sweet looking rig.
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  #28  
Old 11-16-2006, 06:28 PM
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Default RO evaporative replacement

Here's a shot of the RO/DI system. It is plumbed directly into the water supply. RO/DI water is collected in the upper 100 gallon tank. RO/DI is float valve controlled to keep this tank full at all times.

The blue line running down into the sink is temporary. That line will eventually be plumbed directly into the drain. Theres also an emergency overflow pipe coming into the sink on the right. That overflow pipe comes from the top of the 100 gallon holding tank and is there in case the float valve fails to stop the RO system.

You can just see the blue 1/4" line that leaves the RO tank on the bottom-left. That runs over to the main sump and delivers water for evaporative control (gravity fed, float & solenoid controlled). This line will also feed a Kalk reactor.

Beneath the 100 gallon FW tank is the the SW mixer tank. This tank rolls on casters and can be pulled out from underneath when I need to mix SW. The mixer has a Mag 1200 pump that will be used to mix, then deliver the SW.

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  #29  
Old 11-16-2006, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by untamed View Post
I checked those out. My largest door only weighs 17lbs and even the smallest automobile strut that I could find was too powerful. There's some math there that I can't get my head around to try to find the appropriate strut and locate it in the correct position on the door.
What about the thing used on screen doors? you slide the little do-hickey in place and it stays....
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  #30  
Old 11-16-2006, 09:35 PM
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It would seem that I neglected to explain my water change system. As it is difficult to show in photographs (and all the Herbie valves create visual confusion), here is a schematic that explains it.


Last edited by untamed; 06-06-2008 at 08:22 PM. Reason: Modded to include graphic of water exchange system
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